Sichuan Pickled Sparassis


CAULIFLOWER MUSHROOMS (Sparassis sp.) are deliciously nutty and they can be huge, with a firm texture that doesn’t soften with cooking like so many other species. Even after braising in a stew for an hour they remain al dente, which is a good way to describe the texture since this mushroom resembles nothing so much as a bowl full of cooked egg noodles.

Those wavy protrusions and deep clefts are expert at trapping duff and forest debris, making the cauliflower one of the more difficult mushrooms to clean. Worms like them too. The trick, as with so many tasty mushrooms, is to find them before the insects do—or else cut away the infestations as best as possible.

Sichuan peppercorns are the key ingredient. Not really pepper, the spice is actually the husk of a type of berry widespread through Asia. When consumed, it gives the mouth and lips a numb tingling feeling that works well with other hot spices commonly found in Sichuan foods.

1 lb cauliflower mushroom, boiled for a few minutes and cut into pieces
1 lb Napa cabbage, pulled apart and cut into 2-inch squares
1/2 lb diakon radish, sliced into 1/4-inch thick half-moons or matchsticks
2 carrots, sliced on an angle into 1/4-inch thick ovals
6-8 hot peppers cut in half and de-seeded
1/4 cup sliced ginger
2 tbsp Szechuan peppercorns
2 tbsp vodka
6-8 cups water, boiled and cooled
3 tbsp salt

Mix the brine and Szechuan peppercorns in a large tupperware or other non-reactive container. Stir in vodka; this is strictly for sanitary reasons. Add vegetables, fungi, and spices, making sure they are immersed completely in the brine. Cover and store at room temperature for 3-5 days. After the initial pickling, the contents can be refrigerated for 2 weeks.

8 thoughts on “Sichuan Pickled Sparassis

  1. Farmer de Ville

    Great to see you highlighting the Cauliflower mushroom… what great and delicious fungal rarity… I’m always looking… find one or two a year… and it’s a cause for celebration…

    Reply
  2. Nettletown

    nice recipe, i want to try this! i have been using szechuan peppercorns alot lately myself. it is a nice change from the norm. and i have always wondered about that restaurant, now i have a reason to try it..

    Reply
  3. Lo

    Love the floral aroma of the Szechuan peppercorn… bet they were just stellar paired with mushrooms. Of course, now you have me wishing I could get my hands on a few of those Cauliflower mushrooms!

    Reply
  4. drfugawe

    Hey Fin!
    I’ll bet that restaurant is the one I found many years ago during a conference up there – I don’t remember the price, but the only thing they had was pot stickers, and they had an interesting machine in the middle of the floor churning them out like mad. Brought ’em back to the hotel, with a little Chinese BBQ, and watched Sunday football – couldn’t stop wondering how in hell anyone could make such good stuff so cheaply!

    Reply
  5. LC

    Farmer – Same here. The cauliflower is always a bonus. More mature forests are the best bet. It’s one of the best.

    Nettletown – You’ll dig it. This was my first try with Szechuan peppercorns. Now I have a nearly full bag of ’em so it’s time to go deep into the Chengdu catalog… BTW, will be trying that Lobster Shroom Bisque on yr blog.

    Lo – I think I could spend some quality time in Szechuan Province. Need to get Fuchsia Dunlop’s cookbook.

    Doc – Not sure if that’s the same place but it’s a good deal for sure. I’ve always had a weakness for potstickers. Lazy Sunday football and bag full is a good combo.

    Meghan – Long way fer sure. See ya tonight at Omnivore!

    Reply

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