THE LOBSTER mushroom (Hypomyces lactifluorum) is actually a combination of two fungi, with one parasitizing the other. In the PNW, the short-stemmed russula (Russula brevipes) is the host, a rather unexceptional mushroom. 
When parasitized by the lobster, however, it’s transformed into a day-glo orange delight, with firm white flesh and a slightly marine scent and taste. The lobster attacks while the host is still developing underground, sometimes twisting it into tortured shapes and covering the gills until they are nearly undefined, as you can see in the image above.
There are a couple of potential downsides to lobsters. First, depending on where they’re fruiting, they usually require lots of cleaning. The rough, parasitized surface collects duff and dirt like a magnet, and the strange shapes can sometimes trap soil deep in contorted clefts and cavities. Second, bugs like the mushrooms as much as we do. Slice open a lobster and you might be confronted with a maggot-riddled interior. Luckily, mine were almost entirely bug-free.
I like making the classic French dish duxelles with lobsters. The contrast of the outer orange and inner white looks almost like lump crab meat, and the taste of the lobsters is perfect for this dish. Duxelles was reputedly created by famous French chef François Pierre La Varenne (1615–1678), author of Le cuisinier françois and one of the first to codify French cuisine, in honor of his boss, Nicolas Chalon du Blé, marquis d’Uxelles.
Lobster Mushroom Duxelles
1 lb lobster mushrooms, cleaned and finely diced
1-2 shallots, finely diced
1/2 cup or more heavy cream
parsley, chopped
fresh herbs, chopped
cognac
butter
salt and pepper
Saute diced shallot in butter until translucent. Add lobsters and cook on medium-high until the mushrooms have expelled all their water, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Deglaze with a splash of cognac. Slowly stir in cream along with whatever herbs you like and simmer until desired thickness. Garnish with chopped parsley.
Serve duxelles over thinly sliced baguette or mash into a paste for Beef Wellington and other recipes.
do you usually try to identify the lobsters host? I just found a nice patch of lobsters with no other mushrooms around to use as hints. Every field guide ive seen urges caution.
Chief, I’ve never seen a lobster that didn’t use a Russula as its host, although in other parts of the country it’s apparently common to see Lactarius hosts. In any event, neither genus will kill you. The real danger would be a lobster parasitizing an Amanita; as far as I know, this has never been documented. Also, keep in mind that thousands of tons of lobsters are bought and sold across the globe every year. As a general rule, mycologists err on the side of caution. I wouldn’t be overly concerned.
Dude. I will SO be able to top that one! My friend is giving me an eight-pound spiny lobster she grabbed on a dive in SoCal! I am picking up the monster tomorrow. You can have you lobster shrooms, I gots the real deal…
…any suggestions on cooking him? I’ve always been a steam-and-butter (or olive oil) guy…
Eight pounds?! Good thing those suckers don’t have claws like Maine lobsters. With that much meat you should be able to cook whatever you want and then some. How ’bout lobster chanterelle pasta? You could freeze some for later too. The real question is how good a lobster of that size will taste–it might be kinda tough, requiring some novel technique… I’ll expect to see a post with results in any event!