A COMMERCIAL forager once told me that wherever he goes, he always pays for his gas. What he meant is that he always brings home a wild delicacy that makes the trip worthwhile—and in his case it literally pays for the gas when he sells it.

And so I followed his advice on a visit to the Olympic Peninsula recently. It was a work-related trip, but I stopped by a favorite tide flat on the way home and dug a limit of littleneck clams.

That night I “paid for my gas” with a very traditional and elegant steamed clam dinner: Clams in Herbed Wine Sauce.

3 dozen littleneck clams, in the shell
1-2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup yellow onion, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
scant 1/4 cup thinly sliced fennel
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup white wine
handful mixed fresh herbs, chopped (e.g. thyme, oregano, parsley, chives, tarragon)
1/4 cup cream

1. Scrub clams thoroughly.

2. Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Saute onion until soft. Stir in garlic, fennel, and bay leaf; cook for a few minutes.

3. Add wine. Raise heat to high and add clams and herbs. Cover and steam until clams open.

4. Stir in cream, remove from heat, and serve immediately with good bread.

Serves 2 as small meal or appetizers.