THE RED HUCKLEBERRY (Vaccinium parvifolium), tart and pretty, is the first of our huckleberries to fruit in the Pacific Northwest. The trailing blackberry (Rubus ursinus), smaller and firmer in comparison to non-native relatives such as the ubiquitous Himalayan blackberry, with a more complex taste profile, is often nearby. Unlike other varieties, trailing blackberries don’t grow on upright canes; they snake along the ground and over deadfall, hence their common name.
Together, red hucks and trailing blackberries are a pastry chef’s dream team. Both species are usually present in the same woods and ripen at roughly the same time (generally throughout July in my habitat), which means you can forage both in a single outing.
Here’s a recipe for scones that uses yogurt rather than buttermilk. If you like sweet scones, add more sugar.
2 cups flour
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
3 heaping tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 stick cold unsalted butter
1/2 cup wild berries
1/2 cup yogurt
2 tbsp milk
2 eggs
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp lemon zest (optional)
1. Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Sift dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, sugar, salt) together into a large bowl.
3. Whisk together wet ingredients (yogurt, milk, and 1 egg) in a medium bowl.
4. Cut cold butter into small pieces and, using fingers, work into dry ingredients until mealy. Stir in berries, optional lemon zest, and wet ingredients until barely mixed, with a little of the dry flour remaining in bottom of bowl.
5. Remove to a floured work surface. Briefly knead dough so it holds together and forms a disk several inches in diameter and about an inch thick. The dough will be wet and you’ll be reminded of making mud pies as a kid—don’t fret! Cut a dozen or so wedges out of the disk and place on a greased baking pan. You may need to use a pie knife or spatula to transfer wedges from work surface to pan.
6. Whisk second egg and brush egg wash on wedges.
7. Bake until golden brown and cooked through, about 25 minutes. Cool on wire rack.
We’ve enjoyed so many wild blackberries this summer, and I even found some wild plums. But I had no idea about huckleberries! I’ll have to hurry up and get back out there! How exciting!